«Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions, they are temples where I practice my religion»
Anatoly Boukreev
Смотреть далее...
Смотреть далее...
Everest
10-11 MAY 1996 THE TRAGEDY CLAIMED THE LIVES OF 5 PEOPLE
Смотреть далее...
Between May 10 and 11, 5 climbers died while attempting to conquer Everest For a long time, this tragedy was considered the deadliest in the history of commercial mountaineering
Everest is the highest peak in the world
For many years this peak was considered the most impregnable on the earth. It is rightly called Killer Mountain.
Despite the danger, people continue to strive for the highest peak, as if they are pulled by some invisible force.
About 10 people die on the mountain every season.
There was a sense of competition between the groups. Each leader wanted to bring his clients to the top. All climbing rules were ignored and important decisions were made at altitude, which is categorically unacceptable!
What had happened on May 1996? Was it competition or excitement?
30 people of two commercial groups "Mountain madness" and "Adventure Consultants" set out to assault the summit of Mount Everest at dawn on May 10
There were 8 Sherpas and 16 commercial clients on the expedition, led by their leaders, American Scott Fisher and New Zealander Rob Hall
Scott Fisher is the leader of the band "Mountain Madness"
Rob Hall is the leader of the band "Adventure Counselors"
FATAL MISTAKES WERE MADE DURING THE ASCENT
The safety rails were not secured and a queue formed
There are bottlenecks in the climbing sections - below the South Summit and in front of Hillary's feet. Ropes were needed to overcome the sections, but they were not secured. The guides Anatoly Bukreev and Neill Bidelman started to fix the ropes themselves, and all this time the climbers were waiting and wasting time.
09
:
58
The return time was violated. The descent should have started at 13:00
All climbing attempts have a return time - the time when it is necessary to turn around and descend the mountain. This time on the summit of Everest is 1 pm of the day. If you start descending later, you risk getting caught in a blizzard, losing your way, losing all your bearings in the dark.
15
:
10
But to 1 pm no one had managed to reach the summit yet. Only to 4 pm the last 2 climbers climbed the mountain.
Above 8000m you're sick with the flu, you're hungover, and you're about to run a marathon
It’s not just the body that suffers, but also the mind. Short-term and long-term memory, the ability to correctly assess the situation, to keep a clear mind and, as a result, to make the right decisions all these things deteriorate at such high altitudes
Being at altitude, the leaders could not adequately assess the situation and continued to climb. It was obvious that many participants felt bad, but everyone continued to go on the assault....
Lack of spare oxygen at hazardous locations
Due to the fact that the group did not rise in time, the oxygen supply was running out, and in the place where the spare cylinders were supposed to lie, they turned out to be empty.
16
:
15
On the top of the Mountain Everest, the air density is only a third of what it is at sea level. One can live without an oxygen mask for a maximum of 5 minutes. That is why 90% of deaths on Everest are those who found themselves without the vital gas.
People were caught
in a deadly blizzard
in a deadly blizzard
The way down for the returning climbers was blocked by a blizzard. Wind gusts of up to 130 km/h and the temperature dropped to -40 °C. The road down was blocked by a snowstorm.
19
:
00
9 people lost in the South Summit area and could not find their way to camp in a blizzard that limited visibility. They wandered until midnight when they collapsed at the edge of the Kangshung wall cliff.
On this expedition, 5 people died in 24 hours, including group leaders
The leader of the Adventure Consultants, fell behind his group on the descent from the summit and froze at 8,500 feet
Lost consciousness and died of severe brain swelling during descent at an altitude of 8230 meters
Died in a blizzard from hypothermia and lack of oxygen.
It was the first attempt to summit Mount Everest, died of hypoxia
Lost consciousness at 8,780 meters and fell into the abyss
Rob Hall
Scott Fisher
yasuko namba
Andy HarRis
Doug Hansen
On this expedition, 5 people died in 24 hours, including group leaders
The leader of the Adventure Consultants, fell behind his group on the descent from the summit and froze at 8,500 feet
Lost consciousness and died of severe brain swelling during descent at an altitude of 8230 meters
Died in a blizzard from hypothermia and lack of oxygen.
It was the first attempt to summit Mount Everest, died of hypoxia
Lost consciousness at 8,780 meters and fell into the abyss
Rob Hall
Scott Fisher
yasuko namba
Andy Harris
Doug Hansen
Lives that were saved
A real hero was mountaineer Anatoly Bukreev, who single-handedly saved three human lives.
The people were stuck in a blizzard and then the Russian climber went alone with a supply of oxygen for the dead. Over the next few hours, he managed to locate and lead three completely exhausted, barely alive people to 4 Camp. They were Charlotte Fox, Sandy Pittman, and Tim Madsen.
Charlotte Fox
Anatoly Bukreev
Sandy pitman
Tim Madsen
miraculously survived
During a blizzard that caught up with the group on the descent, the participants died one by one...
Beck Weathers
Beck Weathers was among them. He was delirious from exhaustion and altitude sickness and then fell into a snowdrift. The rest of the group did not rescue him because they thought he was dead. But miracles sometimes happen. Beck Weathers woke up! With great difficulty, he climbed out of the snowdrift and down alone. Even for a man of his strength, that was no easy task. This is something out of the realm of the fantastic.
expeditions focused solely on making profit, and anyone could take part in them.
Capitalism is a cruel thing, so in an effort to line their pockets most organizers of such expeditions are not inclined to pay close attention to the physical condition and altitude experience of their clients.
Нил Бейдлман, гид группы «Горное безумие», еще до начала восхождения признался Анатолию Букрееву, что «…у половины клиентов нет никаких шансов на вершину». Такой подход ставит под угрозу не только жизнь самих клиентов, но и успех всей экспедиции — на высоте нет права на ошибку, и расплачиваться за нее будет весь коллектив.
Так отчасти и произошло с «Консультантами по приключениям» и «Горным безумием», когда некоторые их клиенты расходовали непомерное количество кислорода, задерживали остальных на маршруте, отвлекали гидов от серьезной работы и, в конечном счете, не смогли самостоятельно организовать собственное спасение.
If you are willing to pay $65,000 for a non-guaranteed climbing attempt, you will become a hero automatically in the eyes of the person to whom you are paying the money. Because of this approach, commercial expeditions often take people who are obviously incapable of reaching the summit.
In the early 1990s, the first commercial expeditions began to appear
Climbing Everest will always be a risky endeavor. If you need safety, just don't go to the mountains
LET'S GO!
All materials are taken from public sources. The project is not commercial
The project is done as part of the course training https://sasha-sasha.ru
Нередко Эверест называют кладбищем для неприкаянных душ. Жесткие погодные условия и сложности маршрута, а так же нехватка воздуха приводят к тому, что нормы морали здесь попросту перестают работать. Единственное, что включается на этом пути, - инстинкт самосохранения, без которого выживание невозможно
Part of the video material was provided by Vladimir Kotlyar. The film "Climb Mount Everest"
